The effects of surface gravity waves on pore-water release from permeable sediment (k 5 1.3–1.8 3 10211 m2) in shallow water were studied in a wave tank. Our tracer experiments demonstrated that shallow-water waves can increase fluid exchange between sandy sediment and overlying water 50-fold, relative to the exchange by molecular diffusion. The main driving force for this increased exchange ar...

Extended shallow water wave equations are derived, using the method of asymptotic expansions, from Euler (or wave) equations. These extended models valid one order beyond usual weakly nonlinear, long approximation, incorporating all appropriate dispersive and nonlinear terms. Specifically, first we derive Korteweg–de Vries (KdV) equation, then proceed with Benjamin–Bona–Mahony Camassa–Holm in (...

1. Absorption of waves means generation of waves. A body oscillating in water will produce waves. A big body and a small body may produce equally large waves provided the smaller body oscillates with larger amplitude. This may be utilised for the purpose of wave energy conversion, for instance by a small floating body heaving in response to an incident wave, in particular so if it can be arrang...

We observe the propagation dynamics of surface gravity water waves, having an Airy function envelope, in both the linear and the nonlinear regimes. In the linear regime, the shape of the envelope is preserved while propagating in an 18-m water tank, despite the inherent dispersion of the wave packet. The Airy wave function can propagate at a velocity that is slower (or faster if the Airy envelo...

A third-order asymptotic solution in Lagrangian description for nonlinear water waves propagating over a sloping beach is derived. The particle trajectories are obtained as a function of the nonlinear ordering parameter ε and the bottom slope α to the third order of perturbation. A new relationship between the wave velocity and the motions of particles at the free surface profile in the waves p...

The generation of an extreme water state 130 GPa, 5000 K, and 3.4 g /cm3 which is characterized as dense plasma at the axis of a converging shock wave is reported. A 4 kJ pulse generator was used to explode a 40 Cu-wire array, generating a cylindrical shock wave. The measured shock wave trajectory and energy deposited into the water flow were used in hydrodynamic simulations coupled with the eq...