The impact of waves and bores generated by broken solitary on horizontal decks coastal structures was studied solving the Navier–Stokes equations. Solitary different amplitudes were considered, submerged ramps used to bring breaking point. fixed deck located downwave ramp placed at various elevations above below still-water level. results include surface elevation wave bore-induced vertical for...

In many ocean regions the archipelagoes or even isolated islands provide shelter and this effect has an influence on the wave climate for coasts or ocean areas located in the shadow zones. Incident waves from the deep ocean are blocked by the island boundaries and are refracted over the island shoals. The wave energy is partially dissipated in surf zones or reflected back to the deep ocean. How...

Wave breaking modulates air-sea fluxes of energy, momentum, heat, and gases. Building on recent advances in the modeling CO2 gas exchange wave breaking, we investigate variability bubble-mediated transfer coefficients due to wave-current interactions. Submesoscale current gradients strongly modulate which can enhance coefficient along temperature fronts cold filaments. The enhancement is over r...

A two-week dataset from a partially and periodically stratified estuary quantifies variability in the turbulence across the tidal and spring–neap time scales. These observations have been fit with a twoparameter model of the Reynolds stress profile, which produces estimates of the time variation of the bottom boundary layer height and the friction velocity. Conditions at the top of the bottom b...

The estimation of the maximum wave run-up height is a problem of practical importance. Most of the analytical and numerical studies are limited to a constant slope plain shore and to the classical nonlinear shallow water equations. However, in nature the shore is characterized by some roughness. In order to take into account the effects of the bottom rugosity, various ad hoc friction terms are ...

a boundary integral method is used to simulate spilling breakers. the bottom is also included inthe introduced closed boundary and the problem is directly solved in the physical plane. the method has beenshown to be remarkably stable, and no numerical instability has occurred in any of the calculations. theresults reveal that both the momentum and total energy are almost constant in time during...

In this letter, we established a traveling wave solution by using cosine function algorithm for Gardnerequation and (2+1)-dimensional breaking soliton system. The cosine method is used to obtain theexact solution.