There are few high-resolution field observations of the water surface during breaking owing to difficulty collecting spatially dense measurements in surf zone, and thus factors influencing breaking-wave shape conditions remain poorly understood. Here, evolution plunging breakers is analyzed quantitatively using three-dimensional scans collected at high spatial temporal resolution with a multi-b...

[1] The evolution and breaking of internal solitary waves in a shallow upper layer as they approach a constant bottom slope is examined through laboratory experiments. The waves are launched in a two-layer fluid through the standard lock-release method. In most experiments, the wave amplitude is significantly larger than the depth of the shallow upper layer so that they are not well described b...

Introduction: Our lack of understanding of the evolution of seabed roughness (e.g., sand ripples) in sandy coastal regions inhibits our ability to accurately forecast waves and currents and ultimately large-scale morphodynamics. Most wave and circulation models input a constant bottom roughness value (i.e., friction factor) or fixed bed profile that parameterizes the effects of seabed roughness...

We present a bottom-up approach to the question of supersymmetry breaking in the MSSM. Starting with the experimentally measurable low-energy supersymmetry-breaking parameters, which can take any values consistent with present experimental constraints, we evolve them up to an arbitrary high energy scale. Approximate analytical expressions for such an evolution, valid for low and moderate values...

Steep topography on the ocean bottom, when underneath an oscillating tide, is not only associated with significant internal wave generation at the tidal frequency but also nonlinear flow features, large overturns and turbulent flow. Here, we investigate the internal wave dynamics and turbulence at an isolated steep obstacle using a three-dimensional, high-resolution large eddy simulation (LES)....

The Scrubber is a general controller for friction-induced sound. Allowing the user to engage in familiar gestures and feeling actual friction, the synthesized sound gains an evocative nature for the performer and a meaningful relationship between gesture and sound for the audience. It can control a variety of sound synthesis algorithms of which we demonstrate examples based on granular synthesi...

We present an experimental characterization of the effects of turbulence and breaking gravity waves on air-water gas exchange in standing waves. We identify two regimes that govern aeration rates: turbulent transport when no wave breaking occurs and bubble dominated transport when wave breaking occurs. In both regimes, we correlate the qualitative changes in the aeration rate with corresponding...

This contribution concerns a specific simulation method for coastal wave engineering applications. As is common to reduce computational costs the flow is assumed to be irrotational so that a Boussinesq-type of model in horizontal variables only can be used. Here we advocate the use of such a model that respects the Hamiltonian structure of the wave equations. To avoid approximations of the disp...

The superharmonic instability is pervasive in large-amplitude water-wave problems and numerical simulations have predicted a close connection between it and crest instabilities and wave breaking. In this paper we present a nonlinear theory, which is a generic nonlinear consequence of superharmonic instability. The theory predicts the nonlinear behaviour witnessed in numerics, and gives new info...

Neutral meson-antimeson mixing provides important information about electroweak symmetry breaking and quark dynamics. In that respect, the D0−D0 system is unique as it is the only system that is sensitive to the dynamics of the bottom-type quarks. The D − D mixing proceeds extremely slowly, which in the Standard Model (SM) 1,2,3,4,5 is usually attributed to the absence of superheavy quarks dest...