In this paper, we study the propagation of long periodic waves over semi-buried cylindrical objects in the bottom. We present a combination of laboratory wave tank experiments, with a sandy bottom, and numerical modeling, using a two-dimensional fully nonlinear potential flow model. Experiments provide wave elevation at gages and velocity fields measured around the semi-buried objects, using an...

To conserve momentum flux across the air-sea interface, a new wind stress-wave-ocean coupled coastal model system is developed. Via simulating specific idealized tropical cyclone (TC), this firstly applied to study impacts of three wave effects, including commonly studied wave-breaking induced acceleration, wave-enhanced bottom friction and seldom modified surface stress (WMWS), conservation in...

We demonstrate the utility of using the equivalent bottom roughness for calculating the friction factor and the drag coefficient of a seagrass meadow for conditions in which the meadow height is small compared to the water depth. Wave attenuation induced by the seagrass Posidonia oceanica is evaluated using field data from bottom-mounted acoustic doppler veloci meters (ADVs). Using the data fro...

Parts I and II of this paper describe the extension and testing of two sets of Boussinesq-type equations to include surf zone phenomena. Part I is restricted to 1D tests of shoaling, breaking, and runup, while Part II deals with two horizontal dimensions. The model uses two main extensions to the Boussinesq equations: a momentum-conserving eddy viscosity technique to model breaking, and a ‘‘slo...

Abstract While wave processes on shore platforms have been recently advanced by a number of field‐based studies, few attention has paid to the role bed roughness dissipation and setup dynamics in these environments. This study reports new field experiment conducted under storm conditions gently sloping platform which was instrumented from 10 m water depth up shoreline. Data analyses are complem...

A shallow water spectral wave prediction model based on a numerical solution of the radiative transfer equation is presented. The model is second generation and uses a simple yet effective representation for the nonlinear source term. In addition, the model pays particular attention to the shallow water processes of refraction, shoaling, bottom friction, and wave breaking. The flexibility of th...

The Ganges-Brahmaputra-Meghna delta, located in the southern part of Bangladesh, is periodically exposed to severe tropical cyclones. It estimated that two-fifths world’s total impact from tropical-cyclone-induced storm surges occur this region, and these cause fatalities economic losses every year. A barotropic numerical 3D model used investigate wave dynamics during a cyclone-induced storm-su...

This study explores the spatial distribution and driving mechanisms of wave-induced cross-shore flow within shoreface surf zone a dissipative beach. Unpublished results from field campaign carried out in early 2021 under storm wave conditions are presented compared with predictions state-of-the-art phase-averaged three-dimensional circulation modeling system based on vortex force formalism. Und...

This report describes evaluation of a two-dimensional Boussinesq-type wave model, BOUSS-2D, with data obtained from two laboratory experiments and two field studies at the islands of Guam and Hawaii, for waves propagating over fringing reefs. The model evaluation had two goals: (a) investigate differences between laboratory and field characteristics of wave transformation processes over reefs, ...

In this paper, we present a numerical model to simulate wind waves and hydrodynamics in the estuary. We employ the unstructured-grid SUNTANS model for hydrodynamics, and within this model we implement a spectral wave model which solves for transport of wave action density with the finite-volume formulation. Hydrodynamics is coupled to the wave field through the radiation stress. Based on the un...