Shoaling and breaking of solitary waves is computed on slopes 1:100 to 1:8 using an experimentally validated fully nonlinear wave model based on potential flow equations. Characteristics of waves are computed at and beyond the breaking point, and geometric self-similarities of breakers are discussed as a function of wave height and bottom slope. No wave breaks for slopes steeper than 12 . A bre...

Ž . Two depth inÕersion algorithms DIA applicable to coastal waters are developed, calibrated, and validated based on results of computations of periodic waves shoaling over mild slopes, in a Ž . two-dimensional numerical waÕe tank based on fully nonlinear potential flow FNPF theory. In actual field situations, these algorithms would be used to predict the cross-shore depth variation h based on...

Two Depth Inversion Algorithms (DIAs) were developed and validated using on results of computations for the shoaling of periodic waves over mild slopes, in a twodimensional numerical wave tank, based on fully nonlinear potential flow theory. The first algorithm, DIA1, uses sets of values of wave celerity c, heightH , and spatial wavelengths Lc and Lt, simultaneously measured at a number of loca...

Both one-dimensional in the horizontal direction (1DH, dispersive and non-dispersive) two-dimensional (2DH) axisymmetric (approximate, analytical solutions are derived for water waves generated by moving atmospheric pressures. For 1DH, three wave components can be identified: locked propagating with speed of pressure, $C_p$ , two free opposite directions respective celerity, according to linear...

In the midlatitudes, the thermocline depth variations are largely due to Rossby waves of first baroclinic mode forced by stochastic wind stress. The frequency spectrum of this oceanic response is investigated with a simple model, with emphasis on the impact of (i) the horizontal mixing, (ii) the zonal variations of the forcing, and (iii) the nonlinearity due to variations of the Rossby wave cel...

Interaction of surface/internal water waves with a floating platform is discussed with nonlinearity of fluid motion and flexibility of oscillating structure. The set of governing equations based on a variational principle is applied to a oneor two-layer fluid interacting with a horizontally very large and elastic thin plate floating on the water surface. Calculation results of surface displacem...