Ocean regions that global carbon cycle Aodels show are large sinks of carbon dioxide (Cod are known to have high wind speeds. TherefoE, estimates of the global ocean uptake of CO, could be improved through better prediction of the air-sea gas transfer velocity, kb at high wind speeds. Because high winds are also associated with increased whitecapping, development of an accurate method for estim...

This paper presents the development of a new approach, based on wavelet spectrum analysis, for the detection of breaking waves in a time series of surface wave fluctuations. The approach is shown to be capable of producing equivalent wave breaking statistics as field measurements based on detection of whitecaps at a fixed point of observation. This wavelet-based approach is applicable to both d...

Shoaling of solitary waves on a uniform plane beach connected to a constant-depth wave tank is investigated numerically using the smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method. The characteristics of water surface elevations have been analyzed for wave shoaling. To test the validity of the numerical model, the relative wave heights, the time histories of the free surface profiles are measured at...

The superharmonic instability is pervasive in large-amplitude water-wave problems and numerical simulations have predicted a close connection between it and crest instabilities and wave breaking. In this paper we present a nonlinear theory, which is a generic nonlinear consequence of superharmonic instability. The theory predicts the nonlinear behaviour witnessed in numerics, and gives new info...

Occurrences of spurious crests on the troughs of large, relatively steep second-order Stokes waves are anomalous and not an inherent characteristic of real waves. Here, the effects of such occurrences on the statistics described by the standard second-order stochastic model are examined theoretically and by way of simulations. Theoretical results and simulations indicate that when spurious occu...

The design of crest walls is often based on empirical formulations, physical model tests, numerical models and a fair amount expert judgement. present work validates the prediction wave induced forces front face top composite breakwaters in OpenFOAM. results show that OpenFOAM able to capture shape order magnitude force events caused by non-breaking heavily breaking waves. In addition, calibrat...

This paper extends our previous study of the breaking probability of dominant deep water gravity surface waves into the finite water depth environment. It reports a unified behavior of the mean breaking statistics once the effects of finite water depth are taken into account. The shallow water wave data that form the basis of this study were acquired at a field experiment site at Lake George, N...

We theoretically and experimentally generate stationary crescent surface solitons pinged to the boundary of a microstructured vertical cavity surface emission laser by triggering the intrinsic cavity mode as a background potential. Instead of a direct transition from linear to nonlinear cavity modes, we demonstrate the existence of symmetry-breaking crescent waves without any analogs in the lin...

In this paper we study a generalized two-component Camassa-Holm system which can be derived from the theory of shallow water waves moving over a linear shear flow. This new system also generalizes a class of dispersive waves in cylindrical compressible hyperelastic rods. We show that this new system can still exhibit the wave-breaking phenomenon. We also determine the exact blow-up rate of such...

The angular diameter of Snell's window as a function of maximum wave slope is calculated. For flat water the diameter is 97° and increases up to about 122° when the wave slope is about 16°. Steeper waves break and disrupt the smooth surface used in the analysis. Breaking waves produce a window almost 180° wide. The brightness of the dark area around Snell's window is heavily influenced by turbi...