In this paper, an energetic wave propagation model that reproduces shoaling, refraction, diffraction, waveecurrent interaction, bottom friction and wave breaking is modified to simulate also the processes of overtopping and wave transmission over and through permeable coastal structures. This enhances the capabilities of the model and allows to obtain, at a low computational cost, a better repr...

The present paper provides the results of an experimental and numerical investigation on a submerged rubble-mound breakwater with aim to study its performance in terms wave transmission condition large tidal range. has been conducted at EUMER laboratory University Salento. In 2D flume, small-scale physical model constructed exposed different conditions water levels. observations have used calib...

Bottom boundary layer effects on the linear wave propagation over mild slope bottoms are analyzed. A modifiedWKB approximation is presented including boundary layer effects. Within the boundary layer, two cases are considered: laminar (constant viscosity) and turbulent. Boundary layer effects are introduced by coupling the velocity inside the boundary layer to the irrotational velocity in the c...

We present a week of observations of wave dissipation on the south forereef of Palmyra Atoll. Using wave measurements made in 6.2m and 11.2m of water offshore of the surf zone, we computed energy fluxes and near-bottom velocity. Equating the divergence of the shoreward energy flux to its dissipation by bottom friction and parameterizating dissipation in terms of the root-mean-square velocity cu...

[1] We present two depthand phase-resolving models, based on singleand two-phase approaches for suspended sediment transport under water waves. Both models are the extension of a wave hydrodynamic model Cornell Breaking Wave and Structure (COBRAS). In the two-phase approach, dilute two-phase mass and momentum equations are calculated along with a fluid turbulence closure based on balance equati...

Turbulence in the surfzone mixes momentum vertically, transmits stress to the sea bed, influences the structure of the crossand alongshore currents, and controls the suspension of sediment from the sea bed. In many coastal and shelf environments, the sea-bed is the primary source of tur­ bulence due to bottom induced shear. In the surfzone, the breaking-wave generated turbulence dominates over ...

Shoaling of solitary waves on a uniform plane beach connected to a constant-depth wave tank is investigated numerically using the smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method. The characteristics of water surface elevations have been analyzed for wave shoaling. To test the validity of the numerical model, the relative wave heights, the time histories of the free surface profiles are measured at...

In this paper, the slipping friction is considered in the problem of a progressive wave of real fluids propagating over a permeable bottom.In the interface of soil and fluid, the “no-slip” condition is relaxed and a sliding friction coefficient is introduced. Thus, the slipping effect and the permeability of the bottom on the velocity near the seabed can be studied. The results indicate that th...

As part of an ongoing effort to develop a parameterization of wave-induced abyssal mixing, the authors derive an heuristic model for nonlinear wave breaking and energy dissipation associated with internal tides. Then the saturation and dissipation of internal tides for idealized and observed topography samples are investigated. One of the main results is that the wave-induced mixing could be mo...