Results from an experimental investigation into the e ects of rip channels on the nearshore circulation system are presented The results show that periodic channels in an otherwise longshore uniform bar induce longshore pressure gradi ents that drive pairs of counter rotating circulation cells Dense measurements of wave height wave setup and induced currents are presented In addition ev idence ...

Rip currents are like rivers of fast-moving water that can quickly carry the unwary out to sea. They not easy recognize, especially untrained observer. Other than in-situ current measurements, there exists a number methods analyzes images and videos detect rip currents. Most these techniques base their detection on appearance such as foamy pattern, discoloration water, locations breaking waves....

Caption : An Australian beach where surfers ignore the danger sign because in fact the rip current is very useful in taking their surfboards beyond the breaker zone Cover photograph by : Matthew Celia (2008) i Title : Acknowledgements This thesis concludes the M.Sc. Civil Engineering program at the Delft University of Technology. Writing this thesis was challenging, not only for the subject at ...