A unique description for highly nonlinear potential water waves is suggested, where weak three-dimensional effects are included as small corrections to exact two-dimensional equations written in conformal variables. Contrary to the traditional approach, a small parameter in this theory is not a surface slope, but it is the ratio of a typical wavelength to a large transversal scale along the sec...

The amount of wave overtopping at coastal structures such as vertical caisson breakwaters is strongly dependent on the angle attack. reducing effects oblique waves compared to perpendicular attack has been studied by means three-dimensional basin tests. In these physical model tests breakwater exposed conditions with angles between and very (i.e. 0°–75° in steps 15°). Short-crested long-crested...

Laboratory measurements of the fine space-time structure of short gravity-capillary waves, as well as Ku-band scattering at grazing and moderate incidence from wind waves in the large Delft Hydraulics Laboratory wind-wave channel are presented. This study was stimulated by the need to verify the processes that significantly contribute to scattering at grazing and moderate incidence. A scanning ...

The regularized Benjamin–Ono equation appears in the modeling of long-crested interfacial waves in two-fluid systems. For this equation, Fourier–Galerkin and collocation semi-discretizations are proved to be spectrally convergent. A new exact solution is found and used for the experimental validation of the numerical algorithm. The scheme is then used to study the interaction of two solitary wa...

Interaction of two long-crested shallow water waves is analysed in the framework of the two-soliton solution of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation. The wave system is decomposed into the incoming waves and the interaction soliton that represents the particularly high wave hump in the crossing area of the waves. Shown is that extreme surface elevations up to four times exceeding the amplitude o...