The shallowwater equations are a commonly accepted approximation governing tsunami propagation. Numerically capturing certain features of local tsunami inundation requires solving these equations in their physically relevant conservative form, as integral conservation laws for depth and momentum. This form of the equations presents challenges when trying to numerically model global tsunami prop...

The present paper concerns with the effect of initial stress on the propagation of plane waves in a rotating transversely isotropic medium in the context of thermoelasticity theory of GN theory of type-II and III. After solving the governing equations, three waves propagating in the medium are obtained. The fastest among them is a quasi-longitudinal wave. The slowest of them is a thermal wave. ...

A numerical model for long-term simulation of gravity surface waves is described. The model is designed as a component of a coupled Wave Boundary Layer/Sea Waves model, for investigation of small-scale dynamic and thermodynamic interactions between the ocean and atmosphere. Statistical properties of nonlinear wave fields are investigated on a basis of direct hydrodynamical modeling of 1-D poten...

Laboratory measurements of the fine space-time structure of short gravity-capillary waves, as well as Ku-band scattering at grazing and moderate incidence from wind waves in the large Delft Hydraulics Laboratory wind-wave channel are presented. This study was stimulated by the need to verify the processes that significantly contribute to scattering at grazing and moderate incidence. A scanning ...

a r t i c l e i n f o SWAN model predictions, initialized with directional wave buoy observations in 550-m water depth offshore of a steep, submarine canyon, are compared with wave observations in 5.0-, 2.5-, and 1.0-m water depths. Although the model assumptions include small bottom slopes, the alongshore variations of the nearshore wave field caused by refraction over the steep canyon are pre...

Tsunamis induced by rock slides constitute a severe hazard towards coastal fjord communities. Fjords are narrow and rugged with steep slopes, and modeling the shortfrequency and high-amplitude tsunamis in this environment is demanding. In the present paper, our ability (and the lack thereof) to simulate tsunami propagation and run-up in fjords for typical wave characteristics of rock-slide-indu...