The response of a wind-sea spectrum to sudden changes in wind directions of 180 ° and 90 ° is investigated. Numerical simulations using the third-generation wave spectral model SWAN have been undertaken at micro timescales of 30 s and fine spatial resolution of less than 10 m. The results have been validated against the wave data collected during the field campaign at Lake George, Australia. Th...

Steep, short-crested waves, as well as a large variety of three-dimensional propagating wave patterns have been created in laboratory, utilizing a plunging half-cone. Monochromatic waves, over a range of frequencies and amplitudes through breaking and including soliton wave groups near resonance, have been observed and studied in a small wave flume. This monochromatic wavemaker creates complex ...

[1] We examine wave-current interactions in littoral current shear instabilities above a single-barred beach using a fully coupled wave and barotropic current model based on the multiscale asymptotic theory derived by McWilliams et al. (2004). This Eulerian waveaveraged model captures wave effects on currents (WEC) in a manner that leads to simple interpretations. The dynamically conservative W...

Wave height as well as water depth at the breaking point are two basic parameters which are necessary for studying coastal processes. In this study, the application of soft computing-based methods such as artificial neural network (ANN), fuzzy inference system (FIS), adaptive neuro fuzzy inference system (ANFIS) and semi-empirical models for prediction of these parameters are investigated. Th...

In the present paper, discrete element method (DEM) is used to study wave propagation phenomenon in granular soils. The effect of factors such as coefficient of friction, frequency, normal stiffness and soil gradation on the wave velocity is studied. Using the wall motion based on the sinusoidal function is the method of loading used in this simulation, through which the pressure wave is transf...

This paper extends our previous study of the breaking probability of dominant deep water gravity surface waves into the finite water depth environment. It reports a unified behavior of the mean breaking statistics once the effects of finite water depth are taken into account. The shallow water wave data that form the basis of this study were acquired at a field experiment site at Lake George, N...

Objective: To calculate wave response in an offshore or coastal harbor of arbitrary shape, this research develops a two-dimensional linear, inviscid, dispersive, hybrid finite element harbor resonance model using conservation of energy approach. Based on the mild-slope wave equation, the numerical model includes wave refraction, diffraction, and reflection. The model also incorporates the effec...