scattering of an incoming wave train by a discontinuity at the upper surface of the ocean over a uniform porous bottom of finite depth is considered here in the framework of linearized water wave theory. by employing residue calculus method, the reflection and transmission coefficient are obtained. these coefficients are computed numerically for different values of the porosity parameter g and ...

The objectives are to establish a description of the “white-capping” dissipation both as a spectral function and a function of environmental conditions. To date, knowledge of the spectral distribution of energy losses due to wave breaking is so poor that scientific debate continues on whether, in the spectral sense, low-frequency dissipation exists or not. Also there is little knowledge of the ...

A theoretical study of the transformation of large amplitude internal solitary waves (ISW) of permanent form over a slope–shelf topography is considered using as basis the Reynolds equations. The vertical fluid stratification, amplitudes of the propagating ISWs, and the bottom parameters were taken close to those observed in the Andaman and Sulu Seas. The problem was solved numerically. It was ...

This paper examines the effect of current-induced breaking on the modeling of wave breaking dissipation near rip currents. Simulations using a set of existing wave transformation models are compared to existing laboratory measurements made on a bar/channel topography in the presence of both strong and weak rip currents. The model/data comparisons demonstrate that existing models can effectively...

We present the validation and application of a numerical model for the simulation of wave-induced sediment transport. Our approach is a oneway coupling of an inviscid flow model (i.e., a Numerical Wave Tank based on potential flow theory; NWT) to a Navier-Stokes solver, to simulate near bottom wave-induced turbulent boundary layer flows. Only two-dimensional incident wave fields have been consi...

A one-dimensional hybrid numerical model is presented of a shallow-water flume with an incorporated piston paddle. The hybrid model is based on the improved Boussinesq equations by Madsen and Sørensen (1992) and the nonlinear shallow water equations. It is suitable for breaking and non-breaking waves and requires only two adjustable parameters: a friction coefficient and a wave breaking paramet...

We study internal wave generation in a laboratory model of oscillating tidal flow on a continental margin. Waves are found to be generated only in a near-critical region where the slope of the bottom topography matches that of internal waves. Fluid motion with a velocity an order of magnitude larger than that of the forcing occurs within a thin boundary layer above the bottom surface. The reson...

tuned liquid dampers (tld) are among passive control devices that have been used to suppress the vibration of structures in recent years. these structures must be adequately presentable as an equivalent single degree of freedom system with long fundamental period. the tld, located at the top floors of the structure, can dissipate the external input energy into the system through the sloshing ef...