Non-breaking tsunami waves run-up on steep slopes can cause severe damages to coastal structures. The estimation of the wave run-up rate caused by tsunami waves are important to understand the performance and safety issues of the breakwater in practice. In this paper, an Incompressible Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics method (ISPH) method was utilized for the 2DV numerical modeling of nonli...

Recent field observations and modelling of breaking surface gravity waves suggest that air-entraining breaking is not sufficiently dissipative of surface gravity waves to balance the dynamics of wind-wave growth and nonlinear interactions with dissipation for the shorter gravity waves of O(10) cm wavelength. Theories of parasitic capillary waves that form at the crest and forward face of shorte...

The propagation of wave disturbances in water of uniform depth is discussed, accounting for both gravity and compressibility effects. In the linear theory, free-surface (gravity) waves are virtually decoupled from acoustic (compression) waves, as the sound speed in water far exceeds the maximum gravity wave phase speed. However, these two types of wave motion could exchange energy via resonant ...

We study the limiting behavior of large-amplitude standing waves on deep water using high-resolution numerical simulations in double and quadruple precision. While periodic traveling waves approach Stokes's sharply crested extreme wave in an asymptotically self-similar manner, we find that standing waves behave differently. Instead of sharpening to a corner or cusp as previously conjectured, th...

This thesis describes new laboratory observations concerning the interaction between a series of steep incident waves and vertical, surface piercing, cylinders. The motivation for the study arose as a result of wave impact damage sustained to the undersides of several concrete gravity-based structures in the northern North Sea. Earlier work, Swan et al., (1997), demonstrated that in the case of...

Storm surges cause coastal inundation due to setup of the water surface resulting from atmospheric pressure, surface winds and breaking waves. Here we show that during Typhoon Haiyan, the setup generated by breaking waves near the fringing-reef-protected town of Hernani, the Philippines, oscillated with the incidence of large and small wave groups, and steepened into a tsunami-like wave that ca...

Capture-mark-recapture (CMR) approaches are the backbone of many studies in population ecology to gain insight on the life cycle, migration, habitat use, and demography of target species. The reliable and repeatable recognition of an individual throughout its lifetime is the basic requirement of a CMR study. Although invasive techniques are available to mark individuals permanently, noninvasive...