This paper presents a laboratory study to investigate the effects of bottom roughness on wave transmission across submerged coral reef that has steep fore-reef slope. Experimented models were carried out in flumes for four different bed levels: including smooth and three heights. Our investigations showed there is significant dissipation energy short-period waves (SS-waves), owing friction, com...

Abstract. Very steep waves constitute an essentially nonlinear and complicated phenomenon. Inter-related experimental and theoretical efforts are thus required to gain a better understanding of their generation and propagation mechanisms. A nonlinear focusing process in which a single unidirectional steep wave emerges from an initially wide amplitudeand frequency-modulated wave group at a predi...

Extreme surface waves in a deep-water long-crested sea are often interpreted as a manifestation in the real world of the so-called breathing solitons of the focusing nonlinear Schrödinger equation. While the spontaneous emergence of such coherent structures from nonlinear wave dynamics was demonstrated to take place in fiber-optics systems, the same point remains far more controversial in the h...

The focus of the present study is the BBM equation which models unidirectional propagation of small amplitude long waves in shallow water and other dispersive media. Interest will be turned to the two-point boundary value problem wherein the wave motion is specified at both ends of a finite stretch of the medium of propagation. The principal new result is an exact theory of convergence of the t...

Through laboratory experiments we examine internal wave generation above and in the lee of finite-amplitude periodic topography having various degrees of roughness. We show that internal waves are generated not only by flow over the hills but also by flow over “boundary-trapped” lee waves and by vigorous turbulence created in the lee of sharp-crested hills. For low values of the excitation freq...

Steep gravity-capillary waves are studied experimentally in a channel. The range of cyclic frequencies investigated is 6.94-9.80 Hz; namely, the high-frequency portion of the regime of internal resonances according to the weakly nonlinear theory (Wilton’s ripples). These wave trains are stable according to the nonlinear Schrodinger equation. The experimental wave trains are generated by large, ...