Particle trajectories and size sorting above a rippled bed under standing water waves

Particle Trajectories in Solitary Water Waves

Analyzing a free boundary problem for harmonic functions in an infinite planar domain, we prove that in a solitary water wave each particle is transported in the wave direction but slower than the wave speed. As the solitary wave propagates, all particles located ahead of the wave crest are lifted, while those behind it experience a downward motion, with the particle trajectory having asymptoti...

Theoretical and experimental study of particle trajectories for nonlinear water waves propagating on a sloping bottom.

A third-order asymptotic solution in Lagrangian description for nonlinear water waves propagating over a sloping beach is derived. The particle trajectories are obtained as a function of the nonlinear ordering parameter ε and the bottom slope α to the third order of perturbation. A new relationship between the wave velocity and the motions of particles at the free surface profile in the waves p...

Computation of three-dimensional standing water waves

New standing solitary waves in water.

By means of the parametric excitation of water waves in a Hele-Shaw cell, we report the existence of two new types of highly localized, standing surface waves of large amplitude. They are, respectively, of odd and even symmetry. Both standing waves oscillate subharmonically with the forcing frequency. The two-dimensional even pattern presents a certain similarity in the shape with the 3D axisym...

Nash-Moser Theory for Standing Water Waves