Shore and bar cross-shore migration, rotation, and breathing processes at an embayed beach

Sandbar Migration Due to Cross-Shore Sediment Transport; A Case Study of Noshahr Coasts, Iran

Cross-shore sediment transport is one of the effective factors in erosion and sedimentation, and affects dynamics of the beach profile in coastal areas. Furthermore, sandbar migration due to cross-shore sediment transport mostly effects beach nourishment, displacement of pollutions trapped in sediments, and organism and plants’ lives.  In this manuscript, sandbar migration due to cro...

Chapter 6 . Wave Refraction , Breaking and Other Near - Shore Processes

Assessing Embayed Equilibrium State, Beach Rotation and Environmental Forcing Influences; Tenby Southwest Wales, UK

The morphological change of a headland bay beach—Tenby, West Wales, UK—was analysed over a 73-year period (1941–2014). Geo-referenced aerial photographs were used to extract shoreline positions which were subsequently compared with wave models based on storm event data. From the 1941 baseline, results showed shoreline change rates reduced over time with regression models enabling a prediction o...

On a reduced-complexity shoreline model combining cross-shore and alongshore processes

We present a new empirical shoreline evolution model integrating longshore and cross-shore processes. It is designed for wave-dominated sandy coasts and includes feedback between shoreline and wave dynamics. It can also take into account non-erodible (e.g. rocks, artificial structures) contours and complex wave propagation patterns through the coupling with the spectral wave model SWAN. While t...

Considering an arbitrary cross shore profile along the Dutch coast a marine zone and an aeolian

The coastal system consists of a sub-aqueous and a sub-aerial zone which can be separated by a border. At this border sediment exchange takes place from one zone to the other. This paper hypothesizes that conditions and therefore sediment exchange at this border are dependent on active profile characteristics. To analyze morphological developments due to combined marine and aeolian processes da...