Shoreline instability under low-angle wave incidence
نویسندگان
چکیده
منابع مشابه
Shoreline instability under low - angle wave incidence
11 The growth of megacusps as shoreline instabilities is investigated by ex-12 amining the coupling between wave transformation in the shoaling zone, long-13 shore transport in the surf zone, cross-shore transport, and morphological 14 evolution. This coupling is known to drive a potential positive feedback in 15 case of very oblique wave incidence, leading to an unstable shoreline and the 16 c...
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[1] Wave breaking across the surf zone elevates the mean water level at the shoreline (setup), and drives fluctuations about the mean (runup). Runup often is divided into seaswell (0.04–0.3 Hz) and lower frequency infragravity (0.00– 0.04 Hz) components. With energetic incident waves, runup is dominated by infragravity frequencies, and total water levels (combined setup and runup) can exceed 3 ...
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Journal of Geophysical Research
سال: 2011
ISSN: 0148-0227
DOI: 10.1029/2010jf001894