Swashzone Processes

نویسنده

  • Britt Raubenheimer
چکیده

The theoretical balance (Longuet-Higgins and Stewart, 1961) between cross-shore gradients of the mean water level and the wave radiation stress is being evaluated using observations of wave-driven setup. Setup observations were acquired during the SandyDuck experiment from Sept. through Nov. 1997 on a sandy Atlantic Ocean beach near Duck, NC. Bottom pressure was measured with 12 buried pressure gages located between the shoreline and about 5-m water depth. The setup pressure sensors were buried to avoid flow-induced deviations from hydrostatic pressure.

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تاریخ انتشار 2014