ACTIVES Tetra - carboxy - methyl - naringenin - chalcone , a new active to treat rosacea

Tetra-carboxy-methyl-naringenin-chalcone (TCM-NC) is a new cosmetic active derived from naringenin, a flavanone naturally occurring in the peel of citrus fruit and tomato skin. The naringenin isomer naringenin-chalcone has been reported to have potent anti-allergic properties. For this reason the effect of TCM-NC was studied in an in vitro assay mimicking the inflammation pathway of rosacea skin and skin redness. In rosacea skin, an overexpression and release of cathelicidin by surface keratinocytes leads to an inflammatory reaction in neighboring keratinocytes. If not treated, a chronic inflammation can develop inducing increased local blood flow and angiogenesis. In this paper, the inhibitory effect of the new TCM-NC on the cathelicidin-induced inflammatory reaction in human epidermal keratinocytes is reported. In a clinical study performed on volunteers with rosacea skin, TCM-NC clearly diminishes capillary blood flow and thereby the appearance of facial redness.