[1] Theoretically, potential waves cannot generate the vortex motion, but scale considerations indicate that if the steepness of waves is not too small, Reynolds number can exceed critical values. This means that in presence of initial non-potential disturbances the orbital velocities can generate the vortex motion and turbulence. In the paper, this problem was investigated numerically on basis...

Article history: Received 9 July 2007 Received in revised form 2 January 2008 Accepted 10 January 2008 Ecotones are zones of transition between two adjacent ecological systems and are characterized by a high rate of change compared to these adjacent areas. They are dynamic entities with both a spatial and temporal property, reflected in an ecotone width and location, which vary across time duri...

The paper presents the results of a series of experiments conducted on physical models of Quarter-circle breakwater (QBW) in a two dimensional monochromatic wave flume. The purpose of the experiments was to evaluate the reflection coefficient Kr of QBW models of different radii (R) for different submergence ratios (d/hc), where d is the depth of water and hc is the height of the breakwater cres...

Asymptotically exact and nonlocal fourth order nonlinear evolution equations are derived for two coupled fourth order nonlinear evolution equations have been derived in deep water for two capillary-gravity wave packets propagating in the same direction in the presence of wind flowing over water.We have used a general method, based on Zakharov integral equation.On the basis of these evolution eq...

The present study investigates the conspicuous shortcomings of the whitecapping dissipation model implemented in WAM Cycle 4.5 [1], following the lead of the work of [2] and [3]. Its dependence on an overall wave steepness unavoidably yields systematic errors when more than one wave system is propagating. The complex orography and highly variable winds at the Catalan coast lead to fetchand dura...

[1] Why do ocean waves break? Understanding this important and obvious property of the ocean surface has been elusive for decades. This paper investigates causes which lead deep-water two-dimensional initially monochromatic waves to break. Individual wave steepness is found to be the single parameter which determines whether the wave will break immediately, never break or take a finite number o...