abstract one of the most frequently encountered cases of rapid varied flow is the hydraulic jump. it occurs when a supercritical open channel flow changes into sub critical flow. in the present research, the experimental study of the hydraulic jump on seven sinusoidal corrugated beds with different wave steepness. the wave steepness of sinusoidal corrugated beds is in the range of 0.1667 to 0.7...

asymptotically exact and nonlocal third order nonlinear evolution equations are derivedfor two counterpropagating surface capillary gravity wave packets in deep water in thepresence of wind flowing over water.from these evolution equations stability analysis ismade for a uniform standing surface capillary gravity wave trains for longitudinal perturbation. instability condition is obtained and g...

Wave run-up is one of the most important and effective parameters in designing semi-submersible platforms. Besides unforeseen effects on the movements and response of the platform, wave run up can also cause slamming forces to be exerted on the lower deck of the platform. Therefore, at the first stages of this plan, before running tests on the model of the platform, numerical methods are usuall...

Results on horizontal asymmetry and steepness distributions from analyses of ocean wave data collected during 10 severe storms in the northern North Sea are presented. The data have been collected at a sampling rate of 5 Hz using laser altimeters mounted on a fixed platform permitting the shapes of individual waves to be quite closely defined. This has allowed the steepness of the fronts and ba...

Asymptotically exact and nonlocal third order nonlinear evolution equations are derivedfor two counterpropagating surface capillary gravity wave packets in deep water in thepresence of wind flowing over water.From these evolution equations stability analysis ismade for a uniform standing surface capillary gravity wave trains for longitudinal perturbation. Instability condition is obtained and g...

Parasitic ripple generation on short gravity waves (5 cm to 10 cm wavelengths) is examined using fully-nonlinear computations and laboratory experiments. Time-marching simulations show sensitivity of the ripple steepness to initial conditions, in particular to the crest asymmetry. This unique unsteady e ect enhances ripple generation at moderate wave steepness, e.g. ka between 0.15 and 0.20, a ...

Steep, short-crested waves, as well as a large variety of three-dimensional propagating wave patterns have been created in laboratory, utilizing a plunging half-cone. Monochromatic waves, over a range of frequencies and amplitudes through breaking and including soliton wave groups near resonance, have been observed and studied in a small wave flume. This monochromatic wavemaker creates complex ...

Despite representing a key parameter when modelling morphology or sediment transport, surface sediments are often assumed homogenous, with grain size temporally constant. This contribution uses a 6-year data set of monthly sediment samples to quantify the observed variability in intertidal beach sands at four energetic, macrotidal locations (North Cornwall, UK). Changes in grain size and sortin...