a r t i c l e i n f o SWAN model predictions, initialized with directional wave buoy observations in 550-m water depth offshore of a steep, submarine canyon, are compared with wave observations in 5.0-, 2.5-, and 1.0-m water depths. Although the model assumptions include small bottom slopes, the alongshore variations of the nearshore wave field caused by refraction over the steep canyon are pre...

This paper considers the propagation of shallow-water solitary and nonlinear periodic waves over a gradual slope with bottom friction in the framework of a variablecoefficient Korteweg–de Vries equation. We use the Whitham averaging method, using a recent development of this theory for perturbed integrable equations. This general approach enables us not only to improve known results on the adia...

A third-order asymptotic solution in Lagrangian description for nonlinear water waves propagating over a sloping beach is derived. The particle trajectories are obtained as a function of the nonlinear ordering parameter ε and the bottom slope α to the third order of perturbation. A new relationship between the wave velocity and the motions of particles at the free surface profile in the waves p...

NCMRWF (National Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecast) winds assimilated with MSMR (Multi-channel Scanning Microwave Radiometer) winds are used as input to MIKE21 Offshore Spectral Wave model (OSW) which takes into account wind induced wave growth, non-linear wave-wave interaction, wave breaking, bottom friction and wave refraction. The model domain covers the north Indian Ocean, bounded by...

We revisit the problem of the stress distribution in a frictional sandpile with both normal and tangential (frictional) inter-granular forces, under gravity, equipped with a new numerical method of generating such assemblies. Numerical simulations allow a determination of the spatial dependence of all the components of the stress field, principle stress axis, angle of repose, as a function of s...

Breaking waves have ability to transport large quantities of sediment and significant impact on coastal structures morphology. Hence, modeling of wave breaking is an important subject in coastal and marine engineering. In this research, the periodic wave breaking process on a plane slope is studied experimentally and numerically. Laboratory experiments were conducted to record water surface ele...