A specific, genuinely three-dimensional mechanism of rogue wave formation, in a late stage of the modulational instability of a perturbed Stokes deep-water wave, is recognized through numerical experiments. The simulations are based on fully nonlinear equations describing weakly three-dimensional potential flows of an ideal fluid with a free surface in terms of conformal variables. Spontaneous ...

Spiral wave breakup is a proposed mechanism underlying the transition from ventricular tachycardia to fibrillation. We examined the importance of the restitution of action potential duration (APD) and of conduction velocity (CV) to the stability of spiral wave reentry in a two-dimensional sheet of simulated cardiac tissue. The Luo-Rudy ventricular action potential model was modified to eliminat...

Large-eddy simulation (LES) with dynamic one-equation subgrid-scale stress model was utilized to study the characteristics of turbulent flow over sea-surface generalized as two-dimensional wavy wall different wave steepness. The statistical field and pressure distribution were presented in detail. results showed that separation zones induce stronger convection steepness increases. Reynolds shea...

Experiments on extremely steep deterministic waves generated in a large wave tank by focusing of a broadbanded wave train serve as a motivation for the theoretical analysis of the conditions leading to wave breaking. Particular attention is given to the crest of the steepest wave where both the horizontal velocity and the vertical acceleration attain their maxima. Analysis is carried out up to ...

The theory of similarity for wind-driven seas is applied to the physical analysis problem sea state bias (SSB) in altimetry measurements. Dimensionless wave steepness and pseudo-age derived from measurements are expected provide {physically relevant accurate enough} SSB estimates. Analysis Jason-1,2,3 SARAL/AltiKa data within approach shows robustness distributions re-casted onto space steepnes...

This paper presents an experimental study the influence of wave parameter on the damage of reshaping seawall, model tests have been performed in several water level conditions. The experiments of physical modeling of this research have been done in the flume of the Soil Conservation and Watershed Management Research Institute (SCWMRI). The waves applied to the structure model are irregular and ...

this paper presents an experimental study the influence of wave parameter on the damage of reshaping seawall, model tests have been performed in several water level conditions. the experiments of physical modeling of this research have been done in the flume of the soil conservation and watershed management research institute (scwmri). the waves applied to the structure model are irregular and ...

A general method for the derivation of asymptotic nonlinear shallow water and deep water models is presented. Starting from a general dimensionless version of the water-wave equations, we reduce the problem to a system of two equations on the surface elevation and the velocity potential at the free surface. These equations involve a Dirichlet-Neumann operator and we show that all the asymptotic...