نتایج جستجو برای: wave steepness
تعداد نتایج: 219193 فیلتر نتایج به سال:
Laboratory experiments were performed to study the dynamics of threedimensional mechanically generated waves propagating over an oblique current in partial opposition. The flow velocity varied along the mean wave direction of propagation with an increasing trend between the wave-maker and the centre of the tank. Tests with regular wave packets traversing the area of positive current gradient sh...
Global observations of ocean swell, from satellite Synthetic Aperture Radar data, are used to estimate the dissipation of swell energy for a number of storms. Swells can be very persistent with energy e-folding scales exceeding 20,000 km. For increasing swell steepness this scale shrinks systematically, down to 2800 km for the steepest observed swells, revealing a significant loss of swell ener...
[1] The breaking of waves is an important mechanism for a number of physical, chemical and biological processes in the ocean. Intuitively, waves break when they become too steep. Unfortunately, a general consensus on the ultimate shape of waves has not been achieved yet due to the complexity of the breaking mechanism which still remains the least understood of all processes affecting waves. To ...
A thin-film optical filter used as a one-dimensional spatial filter is presented, and its design is briefly examined. The filter consists of a stack of quarter-wave dielectric layers upon a right-angle prism that selectively cancel a reflected or transmitted plane-wave front for various angles of incidence. Transmittance and reflectance are low-pass functions or high-pass functions of the angle...
The motion of small fishing vessels is significantly affected by waves, leading to accidents, such as capsizing or sinking. This paper presents the results two types basin tests. first test analyzed characteristics roll and pitch motions among regular waves with same wave steepness using drifting state three (3G/T, 7G/T, 10G/T) vessels. second 7G/T vessel under different steepness. showed that ...
In the limit of small values of the aspect ratio parameter (or wave steepness) which measures the amplitude of a surface wave in units of its wavelength , a model equation is derived from the Euler system in infinite depth (deep water) without potential flow assumption. The resulting equation is shown to sustain periodic waves which on the one side tend to the proper linear limit at small ampli...
We report on the theoretical and experimental study of the generation of propagating waveguide modes on the water surface. These propagating modes are modulated in the transverse direction in a manner that satisfies boundary conditions on the walls of the water tank. It is shown that the propagating modes possess both anomalous and normal dispersion regimes, in contrast to the extensively studi...
A new method of analysing wave directional data is applied to wave staff data from Lake Ontario during 106 episodes covering a range of wind speeds (up to 16 m/s) and significant heights (up to 2.5m). The method yields wavenumber spectra directly and examples are shown of downwind slices through the full 2-D wavenumber spectrum. These spectra are steeper than the conventional view would suggest...
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