Fringing reefs play an important role in protecting the coastal area by inducing wave breaking and wave energy dissipation. However, modeling of wave transformation and energy dissipation on this topography is still difficult due to the unique structure. In the present study, two-dimensional laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the cross-shore variations of wave transformation, ...

Extreme surface waves in deep-water long-crested sea are often interpreted as a manifestation in real world of the so-called breathing solitons of the focusing nonlinear Schrödinger equation. While the spontaneous emergence of such coherent structures from nonlinear wave dynamics was demonstrated to take place in fiber optics systems, the same point remains far more controversial in the hydrody...

Extreme surface waves in a deep-water long-crested sea are often interpreted as a manifestation in the real world of the so-called breathing solitons of the focusing nonlinear Schrödinger equation. While the spontaneous emergence of such coherent structures from nonlinear wave dynamics was demonstrated to take place in fiber-optics systems, the same point remains far more controversial in the h...

The early life history 7 Abstract The relationship between the biomass of reproductively mature individuals (spawning stock) and the resulting offspring added to the population (recruitment), the stock–recruitment relationship, is a fundamental and challenging problem in all of population biology. The steepness of this relationship is commonly defined as the fraction of recruitment from an unfi...

The extreme characteristics of the run-up of transient long waves are studied in this paper. First we give a brief overview of the existing theory which is mainly based on the hodograph transformation [9]. Then, using numerical simulations, we build on the work of Stefanakis et al. (2011) [37] for an infinite sloping beach and we find that resonant run-up amplification of monochromatic waves is...

Sierra, J.P., Dowding, D.D., Persetto, V., Oliveira, T.A.C., Gironella, X., Mösso, C. and and Mestres, M., 2011. Wave reflection, transmission and spectral changes at permeable low-crested structures. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 64 (Proceedings of the 11th International Coastal Symposium), . Szczecin, Poland, ISSN 0749-0208 Physical model tests were carried out in order to improve the under...

Two depth inversion algorithms applicable to coastal waters are developed, calibrated, and validated based on results of computations of periodic waves shoaling over mild slopes, in a two-dimensional numerical wave tank based on fully nonlinear potential flow theory. In actual field situations, these algorithms would be used to predict the cross-shore depth variation h based on sets of values o...

An overtopping model specifically suited for Wave Dragon is needed in order to improve the reliability of its performance estimates. The model shall be comprehensive of all relevant physical processes that affect overtopping and flexible to adapt to any local conditions and device configuration. An experimental investigation is carried out to update an existing formulation suited for 2D draft-l...