Monitoring storm-induced dramatic beach morphology changes and long-term beach evolution provides crucial data for coastal management. Beach-profile measurement using total station has been conducted along the coast of west-central Florida over the last decade. This paper reviews several case studies of beach morphology changes based on total-station survey along this coast. The advantage of fl...

Field and laboratory observations have shown that a relatively low beach groundwater table enhances beach accretion. These observations have led to the beach dewatering technique (artificially lowering the beach water table) for combating beach erosion. Here we present a process-based numerical model that simulates the interacting wave motion on the beach, coastal groundwater flow, swash sedime...

Monthly cross shore beach profiles measured at the Ogata Wave Observation pier located in Joetsu-Ogata Coast, Niigata Prefecture, Japan, was analyzed to investigate multi-scale morphodynamic beach behavior. The Ogata beach, facing the Sea of Japan, is subjected to high energy wave conditions that has a strong winter/summer seasonal signature. The measured beach profiles at the beach show very s...

WANG, P. and KRAUS, N.C., 2005. Beach profile equilibrium and patterns of wave decay and energy dissipation across the surf zone elucidated in a large-scale laboratory experiment. Journal of Coastal Research, 21(3), 522–534. West Palm Beach (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The widely accepted assumption that the equilibrium beach profile in the surf zone corresponds with uniform waveenergy dissipatio...

This document contains information about the fundamentals of beach profiles and is intended to help teachers improve their content knowledge of ocean wave forces and coastal geomorphic response. Background addresses some of the basic information about waves and the beach profile. Methods of Measuring Beach Profiles presents the history of how coastal scientists have developed techniques of meas...

Although there exist advanced models which predict beach profile for natural beaches, the behavior of the beaches in front of seawalls still suffers from the lack of appropriate theoretical models and sufficient measured data. In this paper, following the results obtained from the measurements, a beach profile evolution model is developed, using the measured probability distribution of the nea...

although there exist advanced models which predict beach profile for natural beaches, the behavior of the beaches in front of seawalls still suffers from the lack of appropriate theoretical models and sufficient measured data. in this paper, following the results obtained from the measurements, a beach profile evolution model is developed, using the measured probability distribution of the near...

Although shoreface nourishments are an increasingly interesting option for coastal managers to counteract coastal erosion, their design is often highly empirical. A better understanding of the way shoreface nourishments interact with the initial beach profile may help to reduce the degree of empiricism in nourishment design. Literature study has shown that numerical modelling is commonly used t...

ROBERTS, T.M.; WANG, P., and KRAUS, N.C., 2010. Limits of wave runup and corresponding beach-profile change from large-scale laboratory data. Journal of Coastal Research, 26(1), 184–198. West Palm Beach (Florida), ISSN 07490208. The dataset from the SUPERTANK laboratory experiment was analyzed to examine wave runup and the corresponding upper limit of beach-profile change. Thirty SUPERTANK runs...