A Boussinesq-type wave model is developed to numerically investigate the breaking waves and wave-induced currents. All the nonlinear terms are retained in the governing equations to keep fully nonlinearity characteristics and it hence more suitable to describe breaking waves with strong nonlinearity in the nearshore region. The Boussinesq equations are firstly extended to incorporate wave break...

This paper describes the numerical model BOUSS-WMH (BOUSSinesq Wave Model for Harbours), a finite element model for nonlinear wave propagation near shore and into harbors. It is based upon an extended version of the Boussinesq equations to which terms were added to generate regular or irregular waves inside the numerical domain, absorb outgoing waves, partially reflect waves at physical boundar...

We report field measurements of waves and currents made from September 2011 to July 2014 on Palmyra Atoll in the central Pacific that were used in conjunction with the SWAN wave model to characterize the wave dynamics operant on the atoll. Our results indicate that wave energy is primarily from the north during the northern hemisphere winter and from the south in the northern hemisphere summer....

As with all coral reef systems, the ecology of Ningaloo Reef is closely linked to water circulation which transport and disperse key material such as nutrients and larvae. Circulation on coral reefs may be driven by a number of forcing mechanisms including waves, tides, wind, and buoyancy effects. Surface waves interacting with reefs have long been known to dominate the currents on many coral r...

A surf zone model is developed and tested based on the Oðl4Þ Boussinesq–Green–Naghdi system of Zhang et al. (2013). Because the model is fundamentally rotational, it uses fewer ad hoc assumptions than are found in many Boussinesq breaking wave systems. Eddy viscosity is used to describe both breaking dissipation and bottom friction, with breaking viscosities derived from the turbulent kinetic e...

[1] The time evolution of rip currents in the nearshore is studied by numerical experiments. The generation of rip currents is due to waves propagating and breaking over alongshore variable topography. Our main focus is to examine the significance of wave-current interaction as it affects the subsequent development of the currents, in particular when the currents are weak compared to the wave s...

We present the development, validation, and application of a numerical model for the simulation of bottom boundary layer (BL) flows induced by arbitrary finite amplitude waves. Our approach is based on coupling a ‘near-field’ local Navier–Stokes (NS) model with a ‘far-field’ inviscid flow model, which simulates large scale incident wave propagation and transformations over a complex ocean botto...

The present paper offers a numerical model which can be applied for the simulation of wave height distribution on a 2-D horizontal soft mud layer. The model is based on mild slope equations and it includes combined wave refraction, diffraction, reflection and breaking. The high energy dissipation of wave height due to the presence of fluid mud layer has also been simulated. Wave height attenuat...

wave prediction is useful for safety and effective management of vessel navigation or construction of offshore structures. since human activity mainly takes place in nearshore regions, accurate wave prediction is necessary there. however, nearshore waves are not easy to predict compared with ocean waves, because not only the waves but also the wind, which is the energy source of the waves, chan...